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(No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 1.

W. DAMER;

MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, 0R SHOES No. 361,269. Patented Apr. 19, 1887.

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MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS 0R SHOES. No. 361,269. Patented Apr. 1 9,;1887.. v

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MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS 0R SHOES. No. 361,269. Patented Apru19, 1887.

(No Model.) 6 Sheets Sheet'4.'

W. DAMER I MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS ORYSHOES.

No. 361,269. Patente'dApr. '19, 188 7.

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MANUFAGTURB 0F BOOTS ORSHOES.

Patented Apr. 19,1887.

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(No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 6.

W. DAMER.

MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS 0R SHOES.

Patented Apr. 19,1887.

U ITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

-WILLIAM DAMER, OF TORONTO, NTARIO, CANADA, ASSIGNOR TO SUSAN DAMER AND WILLIAM A. DAMER, BOTH OF SAME PLACE.

MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS OR SHOES.

SPECIFICATION forming, part of Letters Patent No. 361,269, dated April 19, 1887.

Application filed December 22, 1886. Serial No. 222,321. (No model.) Patented in Canada January 19, 1887, No. 25,807, and in England February'7, 1887, No. 1,923.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, WILLIAM DAMER, of the city of Toronto, in thecount-y of York, in the Province of Ontario, Canada, manufac- 5 turer, have invented .new and useful Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots or Shoes;

and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the same.

My invention relates to those portions of the boot or shoe which are located in the upper leather of the same, and are known as the vamp, the quarter, the lacefacing, and the gusset.

The improvements consist in the cutting the I vamp and quarter in one piece, thereby doing away with the usual sea-n1 which joins the pieces in the ordinary mode of cutting the same.

The improvements further consist in having the lace-facing and gusset in one piece, thereby 2o still further reducing the labor inv the workmanship; and, further, ina peculiar mode of joining the upper part of the vamp to the lacefacing, which gives the necessary spring to the vamp.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 shows a side view of a Balmoral boot without the sole. Fig. 2 shows a side view of a shoe without the sole. Fig. 3 shows a side view of a Gongressboot withoutthesole. Fig. 4 shows 0 a side view of a buttoning boot without the sole, and showing the button-fly. Fig. 5 on same sheet shows the opposite side of same boot and theinside button-ii y. Fig. 6 is a plan view of the uppers of a Balmoral boot and gusset-piece. Fig. 7 is also a plan view of same with the gusset-pieces attached. Fig. 8 is a plan view of a Congress boot with the facing and elastic gusset attached and thelace-facings. Fig. 9is a plan View of a low shoe with facing attached. Fig. 10 is a plan view of a buttoning boot with gusset-pieces attached. Fig. 11 is also a plan view of the same without gussetpieces.

Similar letters of reference indicate similar or corresponding parts.

A represents that part of a boot or shoe called the quarter? A, the vamp; A the lace-facing; A the gusset.

For a Balmoral or lace boot for men, women,

or children: First, in the process of cutting, I cut the vamp and quarter in one piece, doubled, as in Fig. 1, and then I cut a slit to form the vamp from H to F, and then cut a gusset to form top of boot and facing in one piece to form lacing, and place said lacing under or over vamp at H, and draw vamp as much as is necessary from H toward 1, so that said vamp will fit close to the last and to the foot, ,and place the facing of lacing outside of quarter from F to D and inside of quarter from D to J.

Referring to Fig. 1, which represents a Balmoral boot, it will be seen that the quarter A and vamp A are in one piece and without' seam, and that the lace-facing A and gusset A are in one piece and without scam, the said lace-facing being joined to the vamp in the manner hereinbefore shown and described.

Referring to Fig. 2, which represents ashoe, it will be seen that the quarter A and vamp A are in one piece, and that the lace-facing and vamp are joined in the manner hereinbefore described.

Referringto Fig. 3, which represents 2. Congress boot, it will be seen that the quarter A and vamp A are in one piece without seam,

and that the lace-facing A and gusset A are in one piece without seam, and that the said lace-facing is joined to the vamp in the same manner as the Balmoral boot hereinbefore shown and described.

Referring to Fig. 4, which represents a buttoning boot, it will be seen that the quarter A and vamp A are in one piece without seam.

Referring to Fig. 6, it will be seen that the quarters are equally divided by a longitudi-- nal line, a a. There is also aslit out from the point H to the points F F to form the vamp, from which slit the spring is obtained from B to O. The said slit may be of any suitable form if reaching to the points F F. Fig. 7 is 9: also a plan view of the Balmoral boot shown in Fig. 6, with the gusset A attached thereto.

Fig. 8 is a plan View of a Congress boot having the facing A attached thereto, and showing the slit from H to F F, from which the spring is obtained, and the usual elastic gusset, C.

Fig. 9 shows aplan view of alow shoe, with the lace-facing A attached thereto, showing a dotted line, a a, which divides the quarters A and the slit from H to F F, from which the spring is obtained.

5 Fig. 10 shows a plan View of a buttoning boot, in which are shown the gussets a and A", and the buttoning-piece B attached thereto.

Fig. 11 shows theline a a, which divides the quarters and the slit from H to F F, from 10 which is obtained the spring from D to O.

Iam aware of the patent of James A. French, No. 90,252, dated May 18, 1869; also, of the patent ofJ. Brown, No. 216,306, dated June 10, 1879; also, the patent of Horace P. Hayward, I 5 No. 97,195, dated November 23, 1869; also, the patent of J. A. Lemon, No. 269,800, dated December 26, 1882, and find that none of these patents has the slit from H to F, forming the ehieffeature of this invention, and from which 20 feature the inventor obtains the spring from B to C.

I have obtained a patent for this invention in Canada, No. 25,807, dated January 19, 1887, and for the same invention my complete specification has been accepted in England, bearing 2 5 date February 7, 1887, No. 1,923.

Having thus described my invention, I claim A boot or shoe having its vamp and part of quarter in one piece, with a slit of any suit- 0 able. form cut from points H to F F, and having a gusset inserted in each quarter to form the top and facings, said gusset or facing belng placed underneath the vamp through the slit and the vamp drawn up, thereby obtaining 5 the spring from B to O, substantially as shown and described.

\VILLIAM DAMER.

Witnesses:

\VILLIAM A. Danna, \VILLIAM GILL. 

